Book review: Eureka by Andreas Antona
The recipes found within this book's pages will be familiar to those who have enjoyed the Antona at Home range
In the hospitality industry Andreas Antona, the recipient of the 2022 Restaurateur of the Year – Independent Catey, is synonymous with quality and endurance. He has built two highly respected restaurants: the Cross and Simpsons, both of which hold a Michelin star, with the latter celebrating its 30th year of operation this year.
Antona, along with all restaurateurs, has faced a myriad of challenges in recent years and the name for this book comes from the eureka moment that saw the creation of the Antona at Home boxes during the pandemic, with 800 a week sent out during the months of lockdown.
The recipes found within this book's pages will be familiar to those who have enjoyed the Antona at Home range; developed for the home cook and featuring familiar ingredients, with an emphasis on showcasing quality produce at its best. In his introduction the chef says the recipes can be used to produce "restaurant standard" food, but without the need for a commercial kitchen or gadgetry.
Take turbot with wild garlic gnocchi, red pepper, sweet and sour tomatoes and crispy capers or ox cheek served with a bourguignon sauce, braised hispi cabbage and mashed potato. The artistry of Antona's recipes is evident throughout, such as with the asparagus salad adorned with luminescent radishes, pea shoots, whipped goats' cheese and a wild garlic and hazelnut pesto, or caramelised banana placed on an indulgent chocolate cremeux and topped with vanilla ice-cream and a circle of filo pastry.
Within the book Antona stresses that beautiful dishes are dependant on quality ingredients. He explains that this is the most important factor in their cooking, above skill or technique, and adds the warning that locality is not necessarily synonymous with quality. He says that he hopes the book will give people their own eureka moment and realise quality is the most important ingredient. It's a message that will resonate with professional chefs and this book is a further reminder that beautiful produce speaks for itself on the plate.
Eureka by Andreas Antona (A Way With Media, £38)
