Menuwatch: Socius, Norfolk

They moved to Stuhler's hometown of Norwich, but after finding the city's listed building restraints prohibitive, it was 36 miles away in Burnham Market on the North Norfolk coast that they opened Socius in 2018. The carpark-adjacent new build – just breeze blocks and a concrete floor when they viewed it – offered a blank canvas to create the laid-back dining concept they had envisioned after being inspired by New York restaurants such as Uncle Boons, Momofuku, Crown Shy and Empellón.

A rapid turnaround saw Socius open less than two months after they received the keys in December 2017, and since then it has received rave reviews, an avid local following and been named AA Restaurant of the Year 2022/23 (the couple initially thought the news was a hoax).

The 64-cover space has large windows, an open kitchen and mezzanine, with walls adorned with menus from restaurants that have inspired its owners, be it a hot dog shack or a three-Michelin-starred site. When it comes to their own menu the pair envisioned a laid-back sharing plate concept, but coupled with behind-the-scenes curation ensuring that dishes arrive at a speed that will not see one sat getting cold to the side of the table. Stuhler says: "The style of food we served when we opened was a massive risk because at that point there was no one else doing it in the Norfolk area. When we first opened there were a few people who came in and didn't get it, but now they're some of our regulars and they love it."

Lawrence adds: "We don't have any rules here, so if people want to have a cured salmon dish followed by steak, they can do that. If it's a table of four and they all want their own dish, that's no drama."

A team of eight work in the kitchen and tinker with dishes on the weekly-changing menu as they go, feeding off guest feedback and adapting to the best produce they can source. Lawrence showcases Norfolk produce at its best, and in May the first crop of asparagus was lightly blanched and served with a crispy soft-boiled egg, pea velouté and a truffle hollandaise, balanced with glazed brown butter and salt. The following week a citrus dressing was planned to take the place of the hollandaise, keeping things interesting for regular visitors.

The county's plentiful carrot crop has a near-constant place on the menu, and although preparations change through the seasons, it has an avid following among the restaurant's regulars, with Lawrence joking it might be "the most popular vegetable dish in the world".

Its latest incarnation sees a gochujang, coconut and lime sauce topped with whole carrots roasted in lots of brown butter and salt. A cooling coconut and gochujang paste dressing is then added along with a coriander and cucumber salsa. Lawrence adds: "It's a self-contained proper dish, it's got so many elements."

Another Socius favourite is similarly deceptively simple: diced sashimi-grade tuna served in a soy, mirin and anchovy dressing with ginger, chives and coriander. A hot pickled ginger aïoli is added along with spring onions, fresh herbs and deep-fried wonton skins.

Steak also has a permanent spot on the menu. At present a dry-aged picanha from Aubrey Allen is served with a seasonal garnish and Socius steak sauce, which takes a Bordelaise as its base with the addition of gherkins, lardo, confit garlic and capers. Braised cuts will also always have a place, with sticky lamb belly served with carrot vadouvan, cashew and coriander.

Dessert-wise the Socius chocolate bar cannot be removed from the menu. Lawrence says: "It's really simple. It's a soft-set ganache with a dark chocolate cremeaux, a warm salted caramel sauce, a salted chocolate crumble with crispy feuilletine and vanilla gelato.

"It's a dessert that will be on forever. There are certain things that we're building our name around and people want that when they walk in the door. It tastes delicious, it's everything you want: rich, sweet and salty."

From the menu

• Roasted carrots, gochujang, coconut, coriander £10
• Grilled hake, cauliflower, garlic butter, clams £24
• Crispy potato, leek, goats' cheese, chive £10
• Sticky lamb belly, carrot vadouvan, cashew, coriander £25
• Beetroot, yogurt, feta, cucumber, dill £10
• Brown sugar custard, coffee mascarpone, hazelnut, cherry £9.50
• Yogurt parfait, lemon meringue, lemon, raspberry £9.50

11 Foundry Place, Burnham Market, King's Lynn, Norfolk PE31 8LG