US excess meets Israeli spice at this Middle Eastern diner. Maria Mellor makes a mess with its decadent offering
Epicurus is named after the Greek philosopher, founder of the hedonism school of thought, who said "it's not what we have but what we enjoy that constitutes our abundance". And guests certainly enjoy an abundance here.
Co-chef owners Shiri Kraus and Amir Batito between them have a CV that includes the likes of Ottolenghi, the Palomar and the Barbary. They opened the Black Cow in Camden in 2021 as a middle-Eastern steakhouse, which opened the door for Epicurus when Camden Market offered a space in the revamped North Yard.
With Epicurus, Kraus and Batito wanted to create a menu that's plentiful and decadent, echoing the meals they grew up with, but decided to distinguish themselves from their Middle Eastern counterparts by putting their own spin on it.
Unexpectedly, they found the vibe of Iranian cooking paired nicely with American cuisine – thus the concept was born.
"We wanted it to be very unapologetically rich, decadent and overt with flavours and textures," says Kraus. "The most obvious cuisine that goes hand in hand with that is American as it can be larger than life." This sentiment is exemplified in dishes such as the Dakdakim – pulled chicken schwarma pancakes, harissa bacon jam and spiced quince. The American flavour profile comes out in full force with the maple syrup and bacon combo, but then the Iranian influence cuts through with subtle spice, turning a brash breakfast into a sophisticated indulgence.
"It's a beautiful canvas that we add so much more colour to and make it our own," says Kraus.
Instead of starters, main courses and desserts, you have Re'evim (larger plates), Boz (smaller plates) and Matok (sweet treats), alongside Nishnushim (nibbles).
The chefs are keen for their customers to dig in and make a mess, perhaps getting a Re'evim each and sharing a selection of Boz. A meat sharing platter is the climax of the concept– a huge selection of meat with the house gravy (made with beef stock, harissa and port) and pickles.
"The Middle Eastern way to eat is basically to share everything," says Batito.
Kraus recommends using your hands to rip apart the Sloppy Yossef, which is based on the American sloppy Joe but made with burik pastry (like a sturdier filo) and Middle Eastern spices. The chef starts by caramelising chopped onions before adding minced beef from supplier HG Walter along with cumin, harissa, turmeric and paprika as well as brown sugar – more of that sweet-salty American combo – and a splash of vinegar for balance. This mixture is layered with Lincolnshire Poacher cheese and mozzarella and then wrapped in burik pastry and deep-fried.
"We always pay homage to the dishes we're basing things on," says Kraus. "I'm respecting the sloppy Joe-iness of the dish but instead of a bun I'm using pastry."
Batito and Kraus were keen to not only appeal to the swathes of tourists that pass through Camden on a daily basis, but also the north London locals. To help weave them into the fabric of the area they have chosen Camden-based suppliers: beer from Camden Town Brewery, Half Hitch gin, ice-cream from Soho Creamery and cheese from the Cheese Bar.
Desserts are just as decadent, such as the Yael, named after the first pastry chef Kraus worked with. A crunch is provided by pistachio paste, toasted pistachios and a crêpe, which is topped with handmade rose ice-cream, made using rose water and edible rose petals. It's finished with some burnt Italian meringue. "It's almost like Middle Eastern s'mores," says Kraus.
If you're not yet full, the drinks menu provides more treats in the form of boozy milkshakes, such as dates banana, candied pecans and rum; and baklava, pistachio, honey and whiskey.
Though the concept is in its infancy, having opened at the end of April, as it settles into its Camden home there's no doubt it will gain a solid fan base with its bold flavour combinations.
"When people come to our restaurant I want them to feel like they're coming to my house," adds Kraus. "Just let go, let loose and enjoy your meal."
From the menu
Re'evim
- Dakdakim – Pulled chicken schawarma pancakes, harissa bacon jam, spiced quince £13
- Sasson – buttered brioche, creamy prawns, blue cheese £12
Boz
- Raspoutine – chips, Epicurus gravy, Raclette £7
- Salat – Iceberg lettuce, remoulade, Parmesan crisp, smoked almonds, seeded crackers £8.50
- Calamary – crispy baby squid,
- Epicurus mix spice, Tatbileh aioli £10
Matok
- Yael – rose ice-cream, pistachio crunch, burnt meringue £8
- Messy Bamba – baklava Dondurma ice-cream, praline brownie, chocolate caramel sauce, peanut bamba, whipped cream £8
Unit 90, The North Yard, Camden Stables Market, London
