Book review: Cocina Mexicana by Adriana Cavita
In Cocina Mexicana Adriana Cavita, chef patron of London Marylebone restaurant Cavita, showcases the traditional flavours of her homeland that have inspired her career. Recipes cooked in homes across Mexico and the food served from street carts in towns and cities are featured alongside the insights she has gleaned from her time travelling across the expansive nation.
Cavita grew up in Tlatelolco, a neighbourhood in Mexico City, where her grandmother ran a street-food business selling tamales, quesadillas and huarache, an enterprise that supported her nine children.
The chef went on to study gastronomy at the Universidad del Claustro de Sor Juana before travelling through rural towns to discover the regional variations of Mexican cuisine and learn the skills and dishes that have been passed down through generations. Accordingly, the recipes in the book span the country, from the rugged fish tacos and birria (beef stew) of the north through the quesadillas and pollo en adono (chicken adobo) enjoyed in the central regions and the tlayudas con carne asada (known as Oaxacan pizza) found in the south.
The chef provides recipes for the sauces and salsas which appear frequently across the book, highlighting opportunities to adapt them to the reader's tastes. She also explains techniques and provides alternatives for those ingredients that might be difficult to source.
In the opening to the book Cavita says she wants to dismantle some of the stereotypes surrounding Mexican cuisine. She does this not by scornfully dismissing a pervasive, oversimplified narrative but by sharing authentic recipes for the dishes eaten across the country – whether it be a breakfast with friends, a family meal, a snack grabbed on the go or a celebratory meal enjoyed with neighbours.
Accordingly, Cocina Mexicana is a great source of inspiration for chefs wanting to explore Mexican cuisine, whether for a pop-up or street food concept, a special on their menus or just while at home with the family.
Cocina Mexicana by Adriana Cavita (Ryland Peters & Small, £22)
