Book review: The British Cookbook by Ben Mervis
There have been many books written about British cuisine over the years, and this heavy tome from food historian Ben Mervis is one of the most comprehensive yet
Mixing social history and recipes, The British Cookbook is a richly researched dive into the dishes that make up the country's culinary identity.
Mervis, who grew up outside of Philadelphia in the US, arrived in the UK as a university student. He admits being perplexed that British cuisine is "simultaneously adored and derided" and has suffered a "lack of celebration" in the mainstream press. The British Cookbook is pitched as an attempt to address this.
Mervis spent several years travelling across the UK and consulting with regional experts to whittle down an initial list of 1,500 recipes to 550 which best represent local traditions. The book records the stories behind the beloved dishes, the origins of their names and the history that links them all.
The British Cookbook clocks in at 464 pages with recipes from England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland. These are then broken down into county specialities where possible, including Devon's Homity Pie – an open-top cheese and vegetable pie said to have originated as a recipe of the Women's Land Army – and Sally Lunn buns, large, sweet bread roles found almost exclusively at Sally Lunn's tearoom in Bath.
Well-known favourites such as Lancashire Hotpot, roast beef and Victoria sponge are detailed alongside lesser-known regional specialities such as Welsh cheese pudding, Scottish clapshot and Northern Irish carageen moss pudding.
Mervis also explores dishes which were originally created abroad but have since become a staple of restaurants found in Britain, including lamb vindaloo and sesame prawn toast.
The hundreds of dishes are split into 14 sections, including ‘savoury pies and pastries', ‘vegetables' and ‘griddle cakes and breads'. Although the recipes may pose little challenge to experienced chefs, this book is invaluable as an encyclopaedia of a national cuisine and a loving tribute to the best of British.
The British Cookbook by Ben Mervis (Phaidon, £39.95)
