AA Gill finds the shadow of Michelin looming large over at Marcus Wareing at the Berkley
AA Gill at Marcus Wareing at the Berkley hotel in London finds the "meaty atmosphere of a food brothel". The Sunday Times critic who rates Wareing above mentor Gordon Ramsay, finds dinner less engaging than he expected it to be, and far from cheap. Gill suggests the granting of a third Michelin star for Wareing will help the talented chef relax and show a "little less rigour" and a "little more panache" in his cooking.
Giles Coren at Tierra Brindisa finds the tapas restaurant fair but of a scale not entirely suited to large English males.
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By Chris Druce
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