'I will be the master of my own time': Michel Roux Jr on closing Le Gavroche
Michel Roux Jr has spoken out about the "emotional" decision to close his family's Le Gavroche restaurant in London in January 2024, 56 years after it first opened.
The 63-year-old chef gathered the team at the two-Michelin-starred restaurant last week to give them the news in person, before announcing the decision to the press.
"That was very hard, very, very tough," Roux Jr told The Caterer. "But it's been heartwarming to see all the comments [on social media] from staff that have worked for me over the years…all the very kind words saying how wonderful it was. It is very heartwarming in one way but also very tough emotionally."
Originally opened on Chelsea's Lower Sloane Street in 1967 by Roux's Jr's father Albert and uncle Michel, Le Gavroche featured in the inaugural Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland in 1974. It moved to its current site on Upper Brook Street, Mayfair, in 1981 and was the first UK restaurant to win three Michelin stars in 1982.
The restaurant became a London institution for its classically rich French haute cuisine and has seen chefs including Monica Galetti, Gordon Ramsay, Pierre Koffmann, and Marco Pierre White work in its kitchens. Roux Jr took over running the restaurant in 1991.
After 33 years at the helm, Roux Jr is still at Le Gavroche every night, both as a presence in the kitchens and on the dining room floor to greet every guest with "a big metaphorical hug and a smile". But he admitted that the pressure of running a two-Michelin-starred restaurant had taken its toll and, in a statement announcing the closure, cited a desire for a better work-life balance.
"I find it very difficult when the restaurant is open not to be there," he said. "Being able to free up the evenings [will be] really special for me. It's going to be great to spend a little bit more time with my wife and my grandchildren, family is super important."
Despite the difficulties facing the modern hospitality industry, Roux Jr insisted the closure was not financially driven. Le Gavroche's lease was due to come to an end, and he said the closure felt "appropriate and right".
"I can't say it's been brewing for a while," he explained. "But during the pandemic I did almost give the keys back to the landlord. There were times when I did think, ‘why the hell am I doing this and trying to keep the business afloat', when it felt there was no way out. That was very tough, but we came out of it strong and much better for it in many respects."
Le Gavroche has been fortunate in the face of industry issues
Although the chef has been outspoken about the negative effects of Brexit and rising inflation on hospitality businesses, he said Le Gavroche's "fortunate" position meant it had been able to insulate itself. The restaurant has remained full every night, with guests flying in from across the world to try its classical French cuisine, but Roux Jr is aware of the toll across the sector.
"If the cost of energy or raw ingredients goes up, I can afford to put five or ten quid on the bill and people coming to Gavroche will not really look at it. But small independent restaurants or those that are just starting out are very price sensitive, and the cost of running a business in our industry is just horrendous."
He criticised the lack of government help for businesses and added – admittedly slightly tongue in cheek – that MPs were likely eating out in "very high-end places" insulated from the troubles of the high street.
"The cost of energy is crippling, and a lot more could be done. The business rates as well are coming back full whack next year. How are restaurants and pubs supposed to operate like that? It's just not going to work. Sadly, there will be a lot more independent businesses that go to the wall, unless there's help from the government, which doesn't seem to be coming."
The lasting legacy of Le Gavroche
Roux Jr is proud of the longevity of Le Gavroche and the fact the restaurant has stayed busy over 56 years, surviving a pandemic, financial crashes, and successive transport strikes, among other setbacks. During that time, its impact on the British culinary scene should not be underestimated.
"I think [Le Gavroche] was the beginning of a culinary revolution in the UK," said Roux Jr. "I was a child through the 1960's and 70s…the food scene in those days was absolutely dire.
"This younger generation doesn't remember the terrible British food years. I grew up through it and went to English schools, I was fed on grisly mince and powdered mashed potato."
Ahead of the final service in January, Roux Jr plans to host "four or five" special dinners for paying customers at Le Gavroche. These will be themed around past menus from the 1960's, 1970's, 1980's and 1990's and feature appearances from some of the restaurant's former head chefs, as well as Silvano Giraldin, its long-standing general manager who retired in 2008.
Roux Jr said details of the events would be sent out via the Le Gavroche newsletter and he expects the dinners to sell out "within minutes".
The chef will also host an event for the charities of which he is a patron, as well as a special dinner for catering college students to give them the opportunity to dine at Le Gavroche. "I want to try and give a load back before we shut the doors," he explained.
The restaurant's team will go through redundancy consultations over the next few weeks, and Roux Jr said all suppliers would be paid and staff "very well looked after".
Following the closure in January, the restaurant will look to sell off its memorabilia, including plates, cutlery, and engraved water glasses. This will likely take the form of an open day, rather than an auction. One of the restaurant's ornamental animals, a frog made from recycled cutlery, was stolen earlier this year and has yet to be returned, and Roux Jr said many of the other statuettes would be put up for sale.
The closure of the Upper Brook Street site will not be the last guests hear of the Le Gavroche name. Roux Jr has already had conversations with hotels about possible pop-ups or residencies and has partnered with cruise line Cunard to take Le Gavroche out to sea on its luxury ships.
The chef will continue his work with the Roux Scholarship, consulting with Compass Group, operating the Roux restaurants in Scotland and heading up the food and beverage operations at the Langham, London hotel, alongside "a bit of TV work".
Despite staying busy, Roux Jr said he hoped the closure would give him greater freedom over his working hours.
"It opens up a lot more opportunities, but it'll be more my decision. If I want to take Le Gavroche out somewhere I can do it as and when I feel. I will be the master of my own time."
Le Gavroche – a timeline
1967 – Albert Roux and Michel Roux open Le Gavroche on Lower Sloane Street in Chelsea
1974 – Le Gavroche is featured in the inaugural Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland in 1974
1977 – A second Michelin star is awarded
1981 – The restaurant moves to Upper Brook Street, Mayfair
1982 – Le Gavroche is the first restaurant in the UK to be awarded three Michelin stars
1986 – Albert takes sole control of Le Gavroche and Michel leaves for the Waterside Inn
1991 – Michel Roux Jr takes over as chef patron from his father, Albert
1993 – Two Michelin stars awarded
2016 – Michel Roux Jr celebrates 25 years at the helm of Le Gavroche
2017 – Le Gavroche reaches its 50th anniversary milestone
2021 – Michel Roux Jr celebrates 30 years at the helm of Le Gavroche
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