Menuwatch: The Glass House, Stockton-on-Tees

The Glass House opened in August 2021 in a space formerly used for cookery demonstrations and retail, and has replaced the Wellington as Wynyard's flagship restaurant now that the main building is focused on weddings and events. "Our regulars would often say that the Glass House space was tailor-made for a restaurant," executive chef Kleo Tabaku says, "and they were right."

The chef was born in Albania and grew up in Italy. He moved to the UK in 1998 to attend Newcastle College, going on to become a senior sous chef at the city's Jesmond Dene House before senior roles at Nottingham's Saltwater and Lincoln's Old Bakery, then as head chef to the Bishop of Lincoln. He moved to Wynyard Hall in 2018 as senior sous chef, eventually being promoted to executive chef when the Glass House launched. Tabaku says that 60% of the vegetables on the menu come from Wynyard's garden in summer, with the ambition to make that 100% when two polytunnels are installed in late spring.

Winter, he admits, has been a challenge, but not an insurmountable one. "I can see beetroot, cabbage, carrots, celeriac and fennel all growing. We've also got two small greenhouses for herbs and micro lettuce, which helps us a lot."

Veg-forward small plates based on the produce of the garden include vegetable soup with house focaccia (£6), broad beans with thyme and tomato bruschetta (£8.50), burrata with grilled garden vegetables and sourdough (£8.50), and Tabaku's favourite dish of beetroot hummus with pitta (£7).

Beetroots are washed and vacuum-packed with local rapeseed oil, thyme from the garden and lemon juice and steamed at 90°C until tender. The beetroots are then peeled and, once cool, made into a hummus with chickpeas. A salsa of apple, celery and toasted almonds is served on the side along with a slice of housemade pitta.

But there's more to the menu than veg. Fish comes from Hodgsons in Durham Market, while meat is from R&J near Ripon, which at 50 miles from Wynyard is the Glasshouse's furthest supplier. Tabaku sells around 120 portions a week of his herb-fed chicken main course with salad, courgette and ricotta (£14). The thighs are boned and skinned, lightly salted and sprinkled with lemon thyme from the garden, then steamed for two hours at 73°C before being crisped up under the grill. The chicken is accompanied by green and yellow courgettes, a mixed baby leaf salad and ricotta.

The signature dessert, however, looks further afield than the garden walls for inspiration. Tabaku's version of tiramisu (£7) is, he says, one he learnt from his mother. "This one looks a little bit more elegant than hers, but the taste is the same. We mix egg whites and yokes with mascarpone we get direct from Italy and add ladies' fingers soaked in espresso liqueur. To finish I sprinkle pistachios on top. We've had it on the menu from day one and it's sold amazingly well."

The one thing that you won't find on the menu is afternoon tea, which might seem odd given that stately Wynyard Hall looks the very picture of tea and cake territory. "There was a big discussion about serving afternoon tea when we opened, but we don't have the room," Tabaku says. "Also, it's been hard finding staff after the pandemic and I believe if you can't serve something at its very best, you should leave it. Never say never, though."

The chef's plan for the restaurant includes opening more growing areas and expanding his team with an ambition to bring poultry and livestock back to the property. For now, though, his dream has already come true. "Working in a place like this is not like a job," he says. "To have a kitchen garden like this would be a dream come true for any chef."

From the menu

Starter

• Calamari in chickpea and garden fennel pollen batter with lemon aïoli £9
• Cauliflower, cumin and spinach fritters with minted yogurt £7
• Spiced local lamb kofta with tzatziki and garden salad £9

Mains

• Roasted hispi cabbage with chickpeacurry and coriander £17
• Roast salmon with mussels, clams, potatoes and samphire £18
• Slow-cooked lamb ragout gnocchi with spinach and pecorino £15

Desserts

• Mixed berries and cashew cheesecake with raspberry sorbet £7
• Apricot and white chocolate bread and butter pudding with crème anglaise £6

**Wynyard Hall, Billingham, Stockton-on-Tees, County Durham TS22 5NF

01740 644811

www.wynyardhall.co.uk